The Winterless North

The past two months we have been exploring the Northland of New Zealand- this area basically includes everything north of Auckland and is often referred to as the “Winterless North,”- because even during the winter months the weather is fairly mild.

Since we had jobs lined up working in the mandarin orchards surrounding Kaitaia that was where we were headed along with a few American girls we met in Tauranga. But there was much to see along the way. As we traveled we found a few campsites just a short walk away from beautiful beaches and spent a few days swimming, body-surfing, playing paddle ball, and relaxing. 

Mandarin thinning in the rain.

One of our main reasons for exploring the Northland was the Bay of Islands which boasts clear blue water, secluded Island Beaches, lively beach towns, cruises, world class diving and snorkeling, and DOLPHINS! Doesn’t everyone have the fantasy of one day swimming with dolphins? We figured this would be our best chance to make it happen! So we booked a dolphin tour and caught a boat off the docks of Russell. The four-hour tour guaranteed we would see wild dolphins (or we would be able to rebook for another tour) and if all the conditions were perfect we would be able to swim with them (for an additional $30). It seemed to be our lucky day as we spotted a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins within fifteen minutes of boarding the boat. It was amazing to see these beautiful creatures darting through the water and occasionally showing off with acrobatic leaps. Unfortunately the conditions weren’t right for swimming with them but it was encouraging to see dolphins so soon into the tour. Basically, in order to swim with them there can’t be any young ones among the pod, they have to be interacting with the boat in a “playful” manner, and the water can’t be too rough or too deep. The more we learned and thought about these conditions, the more unlikely it seemed that we would actually be getting in the water. Our chances diminished even further after we drove around for the next three hours without a dolphin in sight. We did however see a few penguins and many interesting seabirds. Eventually, after driving miles out into the open sea, we came upon hundreds of common dolphins! These were much smaller than the bottle-nosed, but still just as fun to watch- especially since there were so many. We were unable to swim though, because of the young ones among them and the depth of the water- our initial disappointment at not being able to get into the water turned to relief when a few minutes after heading back towards the bay we spotted a shark lurking on the surface of the water!  

After that adventure it was on to Kaitaia. Our expectations were quite low since we heard a few people claim that this small Northland town was the most dangerous, crime-ridden in New Zealand. As we pulled into town we could see that it was certainly impoverished- a big change from the tourist towns of Tauranga and Mt. Maunganui. However our main objective was to work hard for a month and save money for a trip to the South Island. This seemed like an ideal place to save money - as there was pretty much nothing to do in town!

Theresa's birthday presents complete with bows on their heads!

Work started the next day and our careers as mandarin thinners were born. This was contract work rather than hourly- we got paid for each tree. The problem is some trees are loaded with fruit and others have none- and they are basically worth the same amount. While we were skeptical about the vague system for pricing each tree, we did eventually make more than minimum wage per day- the money was hard earned as we took very few breaks (usually about 15 minutes total in a 9 hour day). Working six days a week for a month would have brought us enough traveling money, however, during our first week Theresa got sick with pneumonia and was bed ridden for nearly three weeks. That certainly put a damper on life in Kaitaia and forced us to prolong long our stay in the Northland. Luckily she was on the mend by the time her birthday rolled around and was surprised by a few German girls we befriended in Tauranga who made the trip up north to help us celebrate with pizza, cheesecake, homemade chocolate cake, a few drinks, and of course presents!

Birthday Pizza Party!

Homemade chocolate cake and 3 cheesecakes!  What more could a girl want?

While the actual town of Kaitaia didn’t offer much in terms of sightseeing, there were still some beautiful places to see in the area. The road running north and south is called the Twin Coast because you are never far from the Tasman Sea (west coast) or the South Pacific (east coast). There are countless beautiful beaches close by- and there are never many people on them. We enjoyed a few days and one unforgettable sunset at a nearby beach with friends. During our last weekend we made the trip north to Cape Reinga. Cape Reinga is practically the northernmost point of New Zealand, a place of spiritual importance to the Maori people, and where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean collide in a turbulent spectacle. Luckily it was a crystal clear day that offered unblemished views of the famous lighthouse, dramatic coastline, and the open sea.

Andy makes a quick call in Kaitaia before we leave

After leaving Kaitaia we decided to look for work in Kerikeri near the Bay of Islands. But we did manage to take a few days off and treat ourselves to an overnight cruise on a refurbished old ferryboat called “The Rock” with some American friends we met in Tauranga and worked with in Kaitaia. The cruise included fishing, target shooting, a barbecue dinner, night kayaking, star-gazing (we saw the southern cross), and snorkeling. The highlight came the second day when the boat anchored near an isolated island and we kayaked ashore to a beach of soft sand and crystal clear water. While on the island we did a short hike and learned about some of the local history. Unfortunately we only had time for a quick swim before we had to return to the boat and leave our little paradise in the bay.

Cape Reinga - a sacred place for the Maori.

Cape Reinga

Lighthouse at Cape Reinga

Sandboarding down a dune near Cape Reinga

The Rock boat cruise

Andy Caught a fish!

Lavinia and Theresa on The Rock cruise

Night Kayaking under the stars

Warming up by the fire after night kayaking on The Rock

Beautiful Motorua island in The Bay of Islands

Our boat, The Rock from Motarua Island

Motarua Island

New Zealand - a place where Yankee and Red Sox fans can tolerate each other

First time shooting a gun. - can you tell??!

A little more experienced

Theresa caught a dragonfly

That was nearly a month and a half ago but in order to prevent us from bombarding you with too much info we will save our time in Kerikeri for another post. We are currently traveling around the North Island, finally on our way to the South Island. Summer is ending here in the Southern Hemisphere….. 

Ode to Portlandia

Hello friends and family!  We have had a bit of a rough month and it has taken us a bit longer to get out this blog post than we had intended. So, we must preface this post by letting you know it was actually written in December and hence some of it may appear a bit out of date.  We promise to write a fresh new one soon to tell you about our month of misfortune…  But we are fine now, maybe even great.  Just a bit of a respiratory bug that got us down for a while.  So here is your very late, but very loveful holiday blog!

With the holidays right around the corner, we decided to make a tribute to Portland and all of things we are missing back home.  It all started a few weeks ago when an American girl from Wisconsin stayed at the lodge.  She was very excited to learn that we were from Portland, as she is planning on moving there when she returns back to the states next year.  We sat down with her and gave her all of our goods about The Rose City and by the end of the conversation we were both completely homesick!  Therefore, we will share with you all of the wonderful things that we wish we could be doing in our hometown with hopes that all of you in Portland will appreciate them a little more!

·      Christmas lights downtown and the warm fuzzy feeling they give you on those dark winter evenings.

·      Powell’s Books.  Even when you aren’t looking to buy, it is always a refuge from the cold and a good place to get some coffee and browse over the new releases and old classics.

·      The Meridian on Hawthorne.  A local, friendly bar with pool and a jukebox – not to mention one of Andy’s favorite Match.com date locations ;)

·      Sound Grounds coffee shop on Belmont.  Good coffee with a selection of used records to browse through.  I spent many hours studying here, sipping on iced herbal tea. Mmmm.

·      Stumptown Coffee.  Though a bit pretentious at times, it sure is a good cup of joe and we can’t help but boast about it to people here.

·      Voodoo Doughnuts.  Amazingness. Need we say more?

·      The Washington Park Zoo.  Though I rarely make it to the zoo and especially not during the holidays with the weather and all, I still found myself out in the orchard with the biggest pang to be wandering around the paths looking for the ever elusive Big Cats.

·      Oaks Park Roller Skating Rink.  Another experience out on the orchard when I was suddenly overcome with that distinct Oaks Roller Rink scent.  Some mix of old leather and sweet cotton candy.  A great place for a rainy Sunday afternoon, when they bring down the big pipe organ and some of the old folks come back to the spot they have loved for decades.  Of course, for me it will always be the spot where my grandfather first laid eyes on my grandmother (to think, he almost didn’t accompany his older brother and friends that night.). as well as the spot where my 15 year old mother sprained her wrist when she was attempting to impress her boyfriend (yep, it was my dad)

·      The Columbia Gorge just a 20-30 minute drive away.  There are some good trails to take in the winter, when Portland is getting colder and the gorge is dusted with snow and icicles.  Andy and I have enjoyed taking invigorating walks complete with ice cold waterfall showers and then warming up just across the road at the Bonneville Spa where you can get a herbal bath and wrap for $30 - $40!

·      Peacock Lane – A street in Portland that prides itself on always having the most spectacular holiday light display in the area.  I’m pretty sure you are only allowed to live on this street if you own a minimum of 20,000 little lights and 15 lawn ornaments.  Very fun to take a walk with some hot chocolate (caramel schnapps optional).

·      Nick’s Coney Island to watch our beloved Blazers and commiserate with the regulars about our seemingly endless injury woes (Brandon Roy- surgery on both knees?! Yikes! Looks like we picked a good season to missL). Don’t forget to enjoy a delicious rootbeer float- order a “Bomber” if you want it spiked!

·      Portland’s many tasty breakfast joints on a lazy Saturday morning.  (Bread and Ink, Cup and Saucer, Fat Albert’s, Bertie Lou’s, Juniors) or make your own custom pancakes- gluten free if you like- at Slappy Cakes.

·      We’ve eaten more Burger King and McDonalds  than we care to admit here n New Zealand (actually I will flat out deny it if you ask me later)- and each time we reminisce and boast to our new friends here about the “healthy” fast-food at Burgerville.

·      Mexican Restaurants! Mexican restaurants here are crazy expensive as well as few and far between.  Even a small can of refried beans costs over $4!!  Our favorites back home include Pepinos (not the best, but super cheap and right next to Andy’s old place), Porque No, La Carreta,  Laughing Planet, Aqui (did it really close?! Whhhhy?) and Iron Horse.

·      Live Music!! Being away has made us both appreciate all of the quality, original live music you can hear in Portland literally any night of the week. No matter who your favorite band is, eventually they will be rolling through town- also there are so many local acts that have regular gigs. Some of our favorite venues include the Aladdin, Laurelthirst, Alberta St. Pub, Mississippi Studios, Crystal Ballroom, Kell’s, and the Roseland. Theresa also couldn’t leave out the Rose Garden in honor of the numerous Bruce concerts she’s seen there.

·      The Rose Gardens and all of Washington and Forest park.  Another good lazy Sunday spot.  Fun to get yourself a bit lost in the trails and find your way out again.  The rose gardens are pretty barren in winter, but with no people around it holds a certain feeling of romance.

Okay, we really can go on and on, but most of you already know all of these things anyway.  We do miss you Portlandia and all of the little things that make you so special!

Here are some of our Christmas photos...

No eggnog in New Zealand, means making it from scratch! 

I was very proud of my hand whipped cream and egg whites...only took 45 minutes.

French toast and eggnog Christmas breakfast

Christmas day on the beach with friends

Some friends made a "Sand Man" complete with rugby ball hat.

Christmas in New Zealand

Our Christmas Tree

International Potluck Dinner

White Elephant Gift Exchange

Fresh Boogie Board

All Blacks Rugby

New Year's Eve

New Year's Eve

New Year's Eve (that's our car!)

Andy's thoughts on......

Being an exploited migrant worker-

Theresa and I have been working for over a month now and we’ve been fortunate enough to find ourselves working for good employers who provide steady work. Our first short-term work experience was not a positive one however…. We were called in to help out a crew of pollinators who worked for a contractor named Vince- Lesson #1- never trust a guy named Vince unless he is the lead singer of a Heavy Metal band. Anyhow, we arrived at the orchard and began working at 8:45 and finished working at 2:20 with a twenty minute lunch. Once we got back to the hostel I asked Vince if we were supposed to give him our hours. He responded that he had written down that we worked for 4.5 hrs. After doing the mental math I said that we had worked at least 5 hrs. He insisted that it was 4.5 and I decided not to push it and make a scene since it was a possibility that he might have more work the next couple days (and at that point we were getting a little desperate for work). So obviously he had all the control. Though the situation was frustrating, it was a good learning experience… and I figure it was not such a bad thing for a couple of Americans to get a little taste of what it’s like to be exploited migrant workers, if only for half a day…

Working  in the factory-

For the past six weeks I have been working  at a Kiwi Puree factory called Kiwifruitz. While the work is monotonous and sometimes even mind-numbing I have plenty of time to daydream and even get physical workout every now and then.  Kiwifruitz is  a small family owned business which sells puree to markets all over the world (primarily in Asia).

Here are my various jobs:

Palletizing- Taking 20 kg boxes of puree off of racks and stacking onto pallets (good workout)

Cleaning bins- using a pressure washer to clean the bins that the kiwi fruit comes in (Great for daydreaming)

Operating bin tip machine- the most important of all of my tasks, this involves loading and operating the machine which tips the crates full of kiwi fruit (350-420 kg each) onto conveyor belt which carries fruit into the factory. The challenge here is to make sure there is a constant flow of fruit going into the factory to maximize production. Actually one day, the conveyor belt motor broke and a co-worker and I had to manually push the fruit along the conveyor belt into the factory. This added a welcomed element of variety and challenge- two men trying to out-work a machine- and it was actually kind of fun for a couple hours. But after 7 hours of constant shoveling we were both quite relieved when the motor was fixed!

As I have said before, the people are good folks to work for, so that eases the pain of the monotony.  The operation is run by Craig, a very competent jack of all trades who understands that one of the secrets of success in running a business is showing genuine appreciation and respect for those who do the dirty work.  Some of the other folks I work with include Alex & Vera, a friendly couple from Argentina who are trying to get residency in NZ and hope to buy a farm/orchard of their own. There is also Tim, a Kiwi and an avid rugby fan who has generously invited myself and a few co-workers to join him for a variety of social gatherings.

Friendly Kiwis-

Prior to finding work in the fruit industry, I was looking at finding some construction work.  During a walk around an estuary near town, we came upon a carpenter who was working on a house. An inquiry to see if he needed any help on the project led to a thirty-minute conversation in which he informed us of the local construction situation (not good) as well as sights to see in the area.  While he wasn’t able to hook me up with any work, Nigel did offer to have Theresa and I over to dinner with him and his wife that Sunday.  We graciously accepted his offer and enjoyed a wonderful home-cooked meal while learning about their family and Kiwi culture in general. They both seemed very excited and fascinated to have a couple of foreigners in their home. In addition to being a builder, Nigel is also a very talented woodworker- he’s actually in the process of making his son a custom electric guitar for Christmas (check out his work at www.carpenterscraft.co.nz). While living at the hostel amongst people from all over the world has been interesting, we are a bit isolated in terms of meeting actual Kiwis. Some of our richest experiences so far have occurred when we have had the opportunity to spend extended amounts of time with Kiwis and our evening with Nigel and Linda was definitely one of our highlights thus far. 

Rugby-

Rugby is everywhere in New Zealand… and I must admit that I have become quite fascinated with the sport after years of considering it a second rate sport. In terms of the actual skills involved, I still believe it can’t compare to my favorite American sports- Basketball and Baseball. But in terms of the physicality and toughness of the athletes, it doesn’t get any better than Rugby. It’s refreshing to see athletes who are so intense and willing to play through injury. Though I’m not exactly sure what a foul is in Rugby, I do know that there is no faking or acting in order to draw a foul (a disdainful art form which has been perfected by so many soccer and basketball players). From what I’ve seen, prima donnas would not fare well in this brutal sport.  A while ago, a bunch of us went into town to watch the All Blacks (NZ’s national team) play against the Wallabees (Australia).  It was an intense match in which Australia was able to pull out a last second win, much to the dismay of the bar full of Kiwis.  Hopefully we will get at least one chance to see the All Blacks play a live match…. And hopefully by then I will know the rules of the game….. 

Greetings from Tauranga, New Zealand

It is raining today, which means that I finally have a day off work and time to fill everyone in on what we have been up to over the last 3 weeks!  So to make my 6^th grade teacher, Mr. Parr, proud I will start off with the setting…

A little sheep on Mt Manganui

Andy and I arrived in Tauranga, New Zealand on a sunny Sunday evening.  We had spent the previous day driving south from the Coromandel Peninsula and had decided to treat ourselves to a little luxury camping at one of the holiday parks described by Andy previously.  A hot shower and flushing toilets were very welcomed after a week at the DOC sites, so we arrived in Tauranga squeaky clean and dressed to impress.  Tauranga is a medium sized beach town on the Eastern Coast of NZ’s North Island.  It has a nice little strip along the waterfront known as The Strand, where there are several cute cafes and swanky bars.  Most of them have store fronts that can be opened and spill out into large front patios complete with tables and umbrellas during sunny weather.  We are told that Tauranga is quite the hot spot during the summer months and it is THE place to be on New Years.  The main attraction, however, is the beautiful and majestic Mt Manganui, just a 5-10 minute drive from the city center.  It is a small, emerald mountain, speckled with sheep and rising up just along the ocean and beach border.  It is about a 30-minute climb to the summit, where the view is spectacular and can be completely taken advantage of only by paragliding off the top and around the mountain.  Andy and I have not been quite that ambitious yet, but you never know!

View of the beach from the top of Mt Manganui.

So we arrived on a Sunday and went straight to a little hostel known as Bell Lodge, where we had heard there were opportunities to find work.  We found the hostel hosts, Rick and Sheree, to be very amiable and helpful people.  They informed us that the kiwi-pruning season would be starting up within the week and ensured us we would be at the top of the list, since we had the advantage of owning a car.  Sounded good to us, so we decided to stay a week and see what came up.  Well, what came up was a whole lotta rain, meaning a whole notta lotta work!  But we managed to meet some nice people and have some fun outings exploring the area.

Andy cooking in the hostel

Andy organized a poker night!

Lavinia (Vermont) and Matthew (France) in the hostel

One of the highlights of our time here was a hike down to the bottom of a small waterfall known as Kaiate.  We weren’t brave enough to jump off the 20-foot rocks into the freezing cold and dark water, but we did take a little swim in the pool.  The setting was beautiful with the showering waterfall close by and all of the greenery.  Upon submersion, I had a few moments of panic as I felt my lungs collapse and the beginnings of hypothermic shock set in, but I adjusted quickly and found the rest of the experience quiet refreshing.  Andy and I swam for a bit and then began our hike back up to the top.  It wasn’t until I had been out for 10 minutes that the pain set in.  A severe earache accompanied me for the next hour, as the blood slowly but surely returned to my aching head.  It lasted so long that I thought I might have come down with a super speedy case of swimmer’s ear, but after a warm shower and hot tea, it seemed to return to normal. 

Hike to Kaiate Falls

Swimming at the falls.

            The pristine, white sand beach known as The Mount, is another huge appeal of the area.  Its northern end begins at the base of Mount Manganui and it has a similar laid back, tourist attraction feel as some of the beaches I have seen in Southern California (minus the rollerbladers and cruiser bikes).  We have spent a few sunny afternoons there eating ice cream from homemade waffle cones and discretely sipping on prohibited mixed beverage and ciders.  The problem with spending a day at the beach here is that the sun is absolutely toxic!  That little hole in the ozone we all hear about happens to be just over our little island here in the South Pacific and that means that even a little sun scorches the skin.  Apparently, the skin cancer rate here is extremely high.  So add skin cancer to my growing list of New Zealand fears. (previously we discussed earthquakes and volcanoes).  Who said this place wasn’t dangerous anyway?!  Maybe there are no man-eating alligators or poisonous spiders and snakes, but it is chalk full of natural disasters just waiting to get you!

The Mount Beach

Another highlight was the day trip we took back up north to Hot Water Beach.  We stopped in there briefly on our way down to Tauranga, but didn’t have a chance to enjoy the geothermic hot spot.  This time, we came prepared with a shovel and milk jugs cut and fashioned into digging devices.  The idea at this one of a kind beach is to dig your very own hot spring!   The layout of the region is just right so that when the tide is out, there are areas where by digging just a half-foot or more in the sand, you can spring your own little pool of hot water.  Well, it sounds all simple and dandy, but the fact is that the water temp varies greatly from one foot to the next.  It can be tricky to find a spot that is not either freezing cold or boiling hot and then once you do get the right temp, it is constantly caving in on itself as the water in the pool erodes sand from the edge.  So it requires almost constant digging to keep the water temp where you want it.  That, however, is only a minor hiccup in what is plainly an indescribable experience.  To be sitting in a hot spring on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world looking out onto the clear ocean beyond….incredible.  It would only have been nicer if A) there were fewer other people enjoying this pristine moment with us.  And B) It hadn’t been windy and raining.  In all fairness we kind of lucked out on the weather for that day, because it was pouring and freezing winds when we got there and were setting up, but once we were in our little pool the sun came out and we had blue skies and warm air for about an hour or more.  It only started to get stormy again as we were packing up the car to go.  So really we hit the sweet spot of the day.

Hot Water Beach

Double rainbow on our way home from Hot Water Beach!

Andy's uniform.

So, to catch you all up quickly to what makes today’s rain so much more welcome than previous ones.   The weather finally cleared up after 2 weeks at the Bell Lodge and that meant that Andy and I had work.  Andy got a gig as a factory worker in a kiwi juice factory (It is actually kiwi puree, but everyone calls it the juice factory).  I will let him do the honor of describing that work to you, since I only hear tales.  He tells me he will post soon…  As for me, I am working out in the kiwi orchards.  Right now is the summer pruning season.  Basically, my day starts out around 6:45AM when the contractor comes and picks a bunch of us migrant workers up at the hostel and drives us to whatever orchard we are working in that day.  Much like in the US, they cram more of us than can fit into the vehicle so it can be a bit of an uncomfortable ride depending on what spot you get and how far the orchard is.  Most are about 10-15 minutes away, but some are 30-45 minutes.  (Don’t worry mom and dad, I always try to find a way to buckle up!).

My office.

On the Job.

Daily workout in our Gym!

At the orchard, we either do what is called bud thinning, where we pick off the flower buds that look deformed (there are thousands!) or we do crush tipping and pruning, where we pinch the end of the vine or cut it in certain cases to keep them from overgrowing and blocking out all the sun.  It can become physically demanding due to the repetition and extending your neck to look up and work overhead, but overall I have found the work to be very enjoyable.  After sitting in a classroom for basically 22 years, it is refreshing to be working with my hands out in the fresh air.  I can’t explain the sense of peace and connection as the sun twinkles off the green leaves above me and the birds sing next to me all day.  We are allowed to wear headphones, but I have found I enjoy the quiet time in my own head to think and reflect.  It has been very therapeutic for me after all the mental business of med school.  That being said, it is still work and I can always find some reason to complain about it.  Yesterday, everything was all wet in the morning and my hands were so cold that I could hardly feel them, let alone pinch the vines.  But the sun warmed us up as the morning went on and the day went quickly after that.  We are scheduled to work 9 hours a day, 7 days a week.  This is why it has become much harder to send out updates and e-mails.  I come home around 5PM, do a quick work out with my friend Lavinia and then basically crash for the rest of the night.  My only day off for the past 2 weeks was last Sunday (Halloween, but I was not feeling well) and TODAY!  So the rain is a blessing today since it means my weary bones get to rest a bit.

Here are a few more shots from the past few weeks!

Birthday cake after a hike and the beach!

Andy turned 34, so we ate fish and chips!

We found a little piece of home here in Tauranga...

Burger Fuel - A New Zealand delicacy.

The Mount Saltwater hot pools.  (Mt Manganui is behind us)

Sunset at the hostel

Out on the The Strand with Lavinia and Heather.

I hope everyone at home is well!  We will write again soon!